VDubber

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  • Trial fitted my new overriders today, well I just kinda hung them on the bumper to see what they looked like.

    Need to move Mr Bibendum over a bit to make room for them but they will have to wait until I take the bumper off. There's a few other jobs ahead on the list (like fitting the engine...
    Trial fitted my new overriders today, well I just kinda hung them on the bumper to see what they looked like.

    Need to move Mr Bibendum over a bit to make room for them but they will have to wait until I take the bumper off. There's a few other jobs ahead on the list (like fitting the engine and gearbox).
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  •   TrevortonBuggy liked this post about 2 days ago
    Got a nice treat in the post today, a pair of overriders for the front of my bus. Got a super good deal on these as Jez from #TheEarlyBay arranged a group buy from Just Kampers. Top Bloke, cheers mate. ?
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  • Received a cool present from Pat Brown the other day, he made up a length of tube to fit my flip top filler cap. The cap has a screw thread mounting that he matched up. Now all I need to do is fit it to the fuel tank and cut a hole in the bonnet.

    Fitting the unit into the tank will first...
    Received a cool present from Pat Brown the other day, he made up a length of tube to fit my flip top filler cap. The cap has a screw thread mounting that he matched up. Now all I need to do is fit it to the fuel tank and cut a hole in the bonnet.

    Fitting the unit into the tank will first require me to make up a drip shield so that any rain that makes it inside the hood area is caught and directed down beneath the car. I'm currently on the lookout for a suitable steel pressing that I can adapt.
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  • More electrickery. Received the connectors for my wideband sensor the other day. I ordered some extra (male and female) connectors so that I can also make up an extension cable for my Innovate LM2 wideband unit. The stock length LM2 cable is not quite long enough for a bus which means that road... More electrickery. Received the connectors for my wideband sensor the other day. I ordered some extra (male and female) connectors so that I can also make up an extension cable for my Innovate LM2 wideband unit. The stock length LM2 cable is not quite long enough for a bus which means that road pulls need to be done looking at the LM2 in the rear mirror which is not exactly the ideal setup. More
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  • One more small step towards the goal; received some coil pack connectors for the twin coil packs.

    I'm kinda not looking forwards to making up the loom, which is kind ironic considering that my background is electrical engineering and I'm a qualified A-class sparky. Go figure. Guess it's too...
    One more small step towards the goal; received some coil pack connectors for the twin coil packs.

    I'm kinda not looking forwards to making up the loom, which is kind ironic considering that my background is electrical engineering and I'm a qualified A-class sparky. Go figure. Guess it's too much like a busmans holiday. Still need to source cabling and overbraid and am waiting on the plugs for the O2 sensor.

    Still haven't done any work on the bus as I've been tied up making blower kits. Hoping that I'm going to get the bus running in time for #dubsbytheriver
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  • Received an order from Vintage Speedster, that's pretty much all of the parts I need to get the speedster on the road. The remaining stuff is just cosmetic. Can't wait to get stuck in but need to get the bus finished off first
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  • No work on the bus this weekend as I've been busy making supercharger kits. Did receive my new lowered shocks tho. Decided to go for gas-adjust on the rear and regular oil on the front as running gas on the front tends to make it a bit bouncy.
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  • Picked up some fittings to run my replacement oil lines with. I'm going for hard lines this time as my previous flexible line got pinched when I bottomed out on a pot hole. Basically hard lines from the engine along the moustache bar, then flexible hose across to the chassis and hard lines from... Picked up some fittings to run my replacement oil lines with. I'm going for hard lines this time as my previous flexible line got pinched when I bottomed out on a pot hole. Basically hard lines from the engine along the moustache bar, then flexible hose across to the chassis and hard lines from there through the filter and cooler. Should be a lot more durable and means that there will only bet two small flexi-hoses in the entire system which will be very easy to swap out, which I generally do every few years.

    It's worth noting that normally oil hose only has a working temperature of up to 200 degrees (F) which is pretty close to the normal operating temps that air cooled run at. This means that it degrades a lot faster than it would on a water cooled car. The hose gets hard and can fatigue and crack. It's worthwhile checking and changing your oil hoses every few years
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  • Been busy building superchargers this weekend so not much progress on the bus. Did manage to get the drive shaft rebuilt tho. Small victories. Just need to fit it now (along with the gearbox).
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  • A few more bits of the puzzle...
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  • Finished off the fan shroud yesterday. Welded in the patch to get rid of the air filter pressing and welded on the 'venturi' to the rear. I also had to change the fan from a doghouse fan to a non-doghouse type of fan. I was hoping to run the doghouse fan for the improved air flow but is was just... Finished off the fan shroud yesterday. Welded in the patch to get rid of the air filter pressing and welded on the 'venturi' to the rear. I also had to change the fan from a doghouse fan to a non-doghouse type of fan. I was hoping to run the doghouse fan for the improved air flow but is was just a couple of mm too wide to fit the fan housing. I also took the time to close up the gap between the fan and the rear inlet as this will allow air pressure to bleed out of the fan housing back into the air inlet path ruining the flow of air into the fan, effectively making the addition of the 'venturi' worthless.

    I mounted the coil packs up and fitted the fan shroud to the engine to check the plug lead fit. I'm pretty happy with the way the plug leads sit and will not need to trim the lengths down to suit. The lower plug leads fit nicely under the clips for the rocker covers and once dressed in with the top leads will sit well enough away from the exhaust.

    There's still a few bits to sort out with the lower tin before it's ready to prep and paint.

    Then there's only 100 other jobs to do before it can go in.
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  • Decided on a location for the coil packs today - on the rear of the fan shroud. Had to flatten part of the pressing on the rear to allow the left coil pack to sit flush. I've drilled out the mounting holes and will use some riv-nuts once the shroud is painted. With the coil pack location sorted... Decided on a location for the coil packs today - on the rear of the fan shroud. Had to flatten part of the pressing on the rear to allow the left coil pack to sit flush. I've drilled out the mounting holes and will use some riv-nuts once the shroud is painted. With the coil pack location sorted I was also able to buy the plug leads - all 8 of them!!! Still need to source some heat proof braid for the bottom plug leads.

    I also made up some tie down brackets for the fuel injectors / fuel rail. Originally I wanted to make a bracket that fitted to the underneath but after taking a look at the injector spacing I could not get two fixings side by side to keep the fuel rail square, so I decided to change the design to a more traditional type bracket.

    With the fan shroud out I decided to finish off getting it ready for paint. There's a couple of mods to do to it before it is ready such as welding up the holes for the plug lead clips, welding the rear 'venturi' onto the inlet and getting rid of the air cleaner recess.I also need to sort out fitting the 50 horse fan into the 40 horse shroud as there are a few air gaps that I'm not happy about.
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  • Mick's 70 Lowlight uploaded a new video
    The finished result...
    Sig Erson 1.4 Rocker Setup
    •   General
    •   Monday, 26 June 2017
    Dialling in my rockers setting up the geometry
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  • Got the valve train geometry sorted out today. Had to make up a custom adjustable pushrod for the Sig Erson ratio rockers as they have a cup style end instead of the normal ball end, this unfortunately meant sacrificing a pushrod. The Sig Erson pushrods were too short to use so I decided to cut... Got the valve train geometry sorted out today. Had to make up a custom adjustable pushrod for the Sig Erson ratio rockers as they have a cup style end instead of the normal ball end, this unfortunately meant sacrificing a pushrod. The Sig Erson pushrods were too short to use so I decided to cut one of those up, I had a set of aluminium cut to length pushrods for another engine build so used those instead.

    Setting the pushrod and rocker geometry is a job that requires a little patience to get the best results, and after making up a number of different thickness shims I found the perfect setup. Overall lift is 9.9mm which is 0.389" a definite improvement over stock but not as good as I had hoped given that I'm using a 1.4:1 ratio rocker. Ahh well. Will just have to see how it performs. Really need to get that dyno built so that I can start to verify some of these mods.
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  • Another small but vital part of the puzzle, my Sig Erson pushrods arrived today. This means I can set up my valve geometry this weekend, Yay.
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  • After a four month wait my hood frame, windscreen frame, side screens and hood cover has finally arrived. Happy days. Now I just need to figure out how it mounts in the car. Looking forwards to getting the hood frame installed so that I can make the car weatherproof.
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  • Another small step towards the end goal. I made up a small calliper to measure the thickness of the cylinder head at the second plug location so that I could select the correct length spark plugs. The second plug is a smaller 10mm plug. Next task on the agenda is to make up a spark plug indexing... Another small step towards the end goal. I made up a small calliper to measure the thickness of the cylinder head at the second plug location so that I could select the correct length spark plugs. The second plug is a smaller 10mm plug. Next task on the agenda is to make up a spark plug indexing tool. The idea behind spark plug indexing is to face the electrode bridge away from the chamber to aid in flame travel. Ideally electrode gap wants to point towards the densest part of the charge. The location of the charge is determined by reading the spark ignition point on the plugs (small clean area on the electrode). Alternatively facing the gap towards the exhaust valve is stated to help improve the burn.

    This may be taking things to extremes but as I am running twin plugs I want to make sure that the flame fronts from each plug travel in the same direction and at the same rate. If one is obscured by the electrode bridge it could result in an uneven burn.

    I also want to get into the habit of indexing the plugs as the next incarnation of development is to run a squish piston design which will totally enclose the plug except for a very small burn chamber. In this case indexing the plugs will be very important.
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  • Another piece of the puzzle...
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  • Carried out repairs to the rear moustache bar mounts today. Unfortunately the threads had stripped out, probably when the bus grounded out in the same pot hole that tore through my oil line. Repairing them involved drilling the holes out larger and tapping them to accept helicoils. With the rear... Carried out repairs to the rear moustache bar mounts today. Unfortunately the threads had stripped out, probably when the bus grounded out in the same pot hole that tore through my oil line. Repairing them involved drilling the holes out larger and tapping them to accept helicoils. With the rear bar fitted I made a start on modifying the exhaust to fit properly. Fortunately I've got some stainless pipe of the correct size so it's a simple case of cutting and extending the J Tubes, I can rotate the flanges to line up with the header at the same time. I'm tempted to cut and shut the header so that it sits a bit better too. Will see how I get on tomorrow. More
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  • Finished off the gauges this evening. Scaled the fascias down to fit and printed out a few test prints. I initially tried to print onto transparent water decal paper but found that the ink was not vibrant enough and did not show up that great on the black background. This was a shame as the... Finished off the gauges this evening. Scaled the fascias down to fit and printed out a few test prints. I initially tried to print onto transparent water decal paper but found that the ink was not vibrant enough and did not show up that great on the black background. This was a shame as the transparent decal paper works a lot better then the white.

    So unfortunately I was forced to use the white paper so that the green numerals were visible. This had one unfortunate side effect - that the white edge of the paper was clearly visible in a few areas against the black background.

    One other thing I noticed is that despite having a laser printer the quality is really not that good. It could be down to the way that I'm processing the image but having exported it 1:1 from an SVG program and printing it 1:1 it came out surprisingly pixelated.

    Despite the quality issues I decided to continue on and get the gauges back together as I figured I could touch up the white bits with texta and as I now had the artwork, at some point down the track I could get some vinyl stickers printed up. At least I would have some functional gauges for the time being.

    With the transfers in place they are then 'cooked' in the oven for 10 minutes at 150 degrees. This is to 'set' the transfer. Unfortunately on a few of the transfers the surface bubbled up a little. I'm guessing that this may have been due to water trapped underneath, or maybe they were not in the oven long enough. With no info supplied with the decal paper it's pretty much anyones guess as to why,.

    With the decals installed on the faces I poked and cut the various holes and then reassembled the gauges. Despite the obvious quality issues they don't look too bad (as long as you don't get too close). I need to get the bezels chromed (I may just paint them for the interim) but even with the dodgy looking faces they will do just fine. (and they didn't cost me $1k like the reproduction units you get).
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