VDubber

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My '56 oval LSR car.
Record holder in DLRA G/BGALT class.

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  • Eric Johnson
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  • So this is the VW powered bike that ran at Speedweek this year. It's listed on the DLRA site as being run by competitor number 1093, Brook Denning. At the moment there is no speed recorded in the results (on open record for this class). I can only assume that either Brook did not finish the... So this is the VW powered bike that ran at Speedweek this year. It's listed on the DLRA site as being run by competitor number 1093, Brook Denning. At the moment there is no speed recorded in the results (on open record for this class). I can only assume that either Brook did not finish the course or that the results have not been entered yet. More
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  • Salt Rat Oval uploaded 83 photos in the album Build Pics
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  • Salt Rat Oval has been created

    Salt Rat Oval

    My '56 oval LSR car.
    Record holder in DLRA G/BGALT class.
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  • This may seem strange to some, but after being into VW's for over 20 years, I've just bought my first Beetle. The car in question is a 1956 oval windowed bug that I've bought to build as a budget racer. The idea is to put together a car for Speedweek 2010 and the rest of the year use it for drag... This may seem strange to some, but after being into VW's for over 20 years, I've just bought my first Beetle. The car in question is a 1956 oval windowed bug that I've bought to build as a budget racer. The idea is to put together a car for Speedweek 2010 and the rest of the year use it for drag racing.I had originally intended to use the Type 4 engine in the Ghia for a year or two and then build a rail / drag car and campaign it in the VWDRC in the UK, but sice moving to Adelaide, there are no local drags, and the nearest strip (in Portland) is only 1/8th mile. The trip to Speedweek earlier this year planted the seed for building something to take to the salt. I had originally thought of a volks rod - chopped and sectioned like the 'death' rod, but the oval turned up on AussieVeeDubbers, and I was inspired. The car was in Caboolture just north of Brisbane, I bought it, unseen (well apart from some photos), and arranged to have it shipped to Adelaide. It arrived last week, and is now in the driveway awaiting transofrmation into a race car. I've spoken to a cage builder and will hopefully get it into his shop in a few weeks time to get the cage made up, this leaves a few weeks to split the pan and fix up any rust issues. The patina will stay, as it is this which mostly attracted me to the car in the first place, but I will give it a clear coat to prevent it from getting any worse. I need to speak to someone who's done this before to find out what / how they did it.The first item to fix up is to fit some moon discs - these are on order and will arive next Tuesday, once these are fitted I can get the wheels powder coated and get the rubber sorted out.I will keep you posted of the progress. More
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  • Just a quick post to say that the strip down of the oval is now underway. The shell has been mostly stripped out, with only two wings (fenders) and the doors left to remove before the body can be lifted from the pan.So far everything has been pretty easy with only two of the fender bolts... Just a quick post to say that the strip down of the oval is now underway. The shell has been mostly stripped out, with only two wings (fenders) and the doors left to remove before the body can be lifted from the pan.So far everything has been pretty easy with only two of the fender bolts snapping off, The doors are proving to be pretty difficult to get off as the bolts are refusing to budge. Hopefully a night of soaking in release agent and some brute force with the impact driver will fix that.Inspection of the shell and pan has shown that the rear valence and rear of the rear wings look like they have been used to level the body into the air - probably to remove the engine - hence they are a little bent up. My guess is that the car was taken off of the road due to excessive wear in the front link pins - which would have been a wobbly ride at least - lol.The lower front (valence) section ideally needs to be replaced, the wheel well is pretty badly perforated - mostly from the front end smash that the car has been in - the initial smash and then the straightening out has fatigued the metal causing it to tear, the valence itself is also too badly dented to warrant repair, it's simply more cost effective (and quicker) to replace it, and time is one thing that I do not have the luxury af as I have a tight deadline.I've taken quite a few pics and some video, which i will post up once I've got the body off of the pan, but until then I've decide to keep out of the office, and in the yard working. I will oder that pan halves and front repair panel today, and enquire about prices for a narrowed + dropped disc brake front end - I can save a huge bunch of time by simply swapping the beam over complete for one that is already built. But this depends on $$$$$'
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  • So I finished stripping the oval today, the doors didn't want to come off, half of the bolts came out with a little persuasion from the rattle gun, but the rest had to be drilled out. the keeper plates will have to be cleaned up and re-tapped before refitting. Fortunately, door hinge screws seem... So I finished stripping the oval today, the doors didn't want to come off, half of the bolts came out with a little persuasion from the rattle gun, but the rest had to be drilled out. the keeper plates will have to be cleaned up and re-tapped before refitting. Fortunately, door hinge screws seem to be something I have an excess of.With everything off of the car I had a good nose around and was pleased to see that the shell is a solid as expected, with the only rust present in the rear footwells - probably from sitting in water from the missing rear window.The front valence, hood and offside wing have sufferend from a shunt at some point in the distant past, the wheel well panel needs to be replaced, and ideally the outer panel does too, but i will have a go at beating it out before resorting to a complete new clip. The rear valence has suffered a similar fate although not as bad, my guess is that someone levered the body up over the engine with a bit of 2x4" when it was removed.Next plans are to roll the pan out, replace the pan halves, and fit the IRS. Then the front beam can be swapped out. I got a price from classic vee dub for a 2" narrowed beam with adjusters fitted, 2" dropped link pin spindles and a wide 5 disc brake kit at $1200 - not too bad in my books. The beam needs to be fitted up with the trailing arms and springs from the existing beam, and the tie rods need to be shortened + there's all of the small items like new seals to consider, but at least it will provide a good solid front end. They also offer a rear disc conversion for IRS in wide 5 pattern too at $770. Whilst this is all relatively cheap - it all ends up adding up, so I might buy the end plates and adjusters and cut and shut the beam myself, it's not a big job and will probably save $400-500. The front brake kit with dropped spindles is $700 on it's own.I was offered a rebuilt late IRS pan - which is tempting, but seems a little sacrilegeous as it feels like cheating - it does however save some dollah's. and I will consider this as an option (please feel free to talk me out of this / encourage me to do this).So - next stage is to go buy some more axle stands as the four I have are holding the Ghia up, and get the body off of the pan. Also need to decide on what i want to do with the pan / brakes / suspsnsion etc then go and either buy the late pan or buy the stuff to fix this one.I need to source a boot hinge as the offside one had broken off of the hood and unfortunately isnt with the car - so if anyone can help me out - shoot me a message.
    There's some more images in the gallery that I've uploaded. - you can view them here -  http://www.vdubber.com/photo/gallery_tag/vdubber
     
     
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  • The past few weeks haven't seen much progress with the oval, most of this time has been spent waiting for parts, but a little more about that later. We have also been pretty busy trying to get the ezine out before christmas, this is nearing completion and should be out any time soon. Keep a look... The past few weeks haven't seen much progress with the oval, most of this time has been spent waiting for parts, but a little more about that later. We have also been pretty busy trying to get the ezine out before christmas, this is nearing completion and should be out any time soon. Keep a look out for an announcement in your inbox.Back to the latest... After going to take a look at the IRS pan I was offered and deciding that it wasn't really much better condition than the oval pan I already had, the decision was made to rebuild the original pan. At $2k i expected the IRS pan to be pretty much concourse, which it wasn't, and whilst the whole thing was supposedly rebuilt, it would have still required stripping back to a bare pan to paint it - just not really a cost effective excercise.
    So i decided that I would convert the Oval pan to IRS and fit a dropped and narrowed King & Linkpin beam - retaining the original suspension should i decide to restore it in the distant future. I also made the decision that I would retain drum brakes and renew everything, this was partially cost related, but also related to the useage that the oval will see - there's no repeated braking, so drums should be fine.After phoning around to see who had the parts in stock, so that I could get them sooner, I placed an order with Classicveedub, who had everything on the shelf. But after waiting nearly three weeks just to receive the payment details, even prompting him with repeated phone calls and emails, and still getting no response, I cancelled my order and placed it locally with Interparts (ex intervolks). This is the last time i deal with Classicveedub, He is simply too slack for my liking, and I DON'T reccommend him. Now this may seem like I am simply having a bit of a whinge, and I'm sure that some will be offended that I have named and shamed, but if it saves someone else the grief, then it's worthwhile.
    So, after losing two weeks, the schedule is now even tighter. I already have the pan halves, and the rest of the stuff should be arriving early next week. The body is now off of the pan, and I have stripped the suspension off ready for the IRS and narrowed beam. The pan halves have been cut off and the new ones offered up for fit. The fit wasn't too bad, the rear section needs dressing in about 5mm, but that is it. The front floor section where the pedals are needs to be drilled for the pedal cluster, and i will transfer the captive nuts from the old pan, just to be correct. The pans also came with the correct style seat rails and battery holder, which was another bonus, as some don't.I sourced a set of IRS arms, spring plates and torsion bars from a contact I made at the Volksfest show the other weekend, these need a little cleanup, as they appear to be covered in underseal. These will be fitted with the 6 volt backing plates to allow the 5 stud drums to be fitted. Evidently this all fits onto the IRS stub axle, although i will need to turn a spacer to sit under the axle nut as the splined shaft is slightly longer to accommodate the wider drums normally fitted to later cars. The braking system will also be upgraded to use a dual circuit master cylinder, and all hard and flexibles lines will be renewed too.The next job, before I weld the pan halves on is to get the Porsche 915 gearbox fitted, this will be easier with the pan stripped as i need to turn it over a few times. It will also require the body to be lifted back in position as well, as I need to check the clearance between the engine and the rear valence. The 915 box effectively pushes the engine back about 25mm, which means that the clearance at the rear will become either very tight, or will clash. At this stage i am considering cutting the rear valence and fitting it with Dzus, fastners, this is probably a very good idea, both for ease of maintenance, and ease of engine fitting, plus it will allow me to cut the valence for clearance.I also paid a visit to the local race equipment shop to checkout race suit packages and fire suppression systems, whilst I was there i picked up a remote battery cutout and some bonnet pins, as well as a sticker set. (Shutoff location stickers are a mandatory requirement).
    The oval is booked in to have a cage made in the new year, but with this supposedly going to take a month I'm now getting worried that it simply isn't enough time. So at the moment I am on the lookout for a second hand cage. Fingers Crossed.For more images, check my gallery at  http://www.vdubber.com/photo/gallery/all/T-34
    There's also a vid of us lifting off the pan -  http://www.vdubber.com/video/gallery/body-off
     
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  • Fitted the 915 box in today, it sits pretty good. Had to cut out old
    front gearbox mount to get enough clearance. Still got to make up
    mountings but will fab some custom ones to fit. I've also cut the pan for the shift linkage, everything seems to line up better than expected. It is a bit of a...
    Fitted the 915 box in today, it sits pretty good. Had to cut out old
    front gearbox mount to get enough clearance. Still got to make up
    mountings but will fab some custom ones to fit. I've also cut the pan for the shift linkage, everything seems to line up better than expected. It is a bit of a tight squeeze in between the frame horns, but it all fits. There is only one place that really needs a bit of clearancing as it is a little close to the case, but not really a massive issue as the box shouldn't be moving around too much. I am very tempted to hard mount the engine and box in, as this will certainly be easier, but not 100% at the moment.Also started the IRS
    conversion by clearancing the frame ready for the pivot housings to be welded in. These need some clearancing to fit the rear torsion bar tubes, which considering that they are laser cut is a poor show. If I had known that they would be so poor quality I would have fabbed some myself, especially as now I have to waste time putting them right. The IRS arms are fitted tot he pan and the brakes and hubs stripped off to allow the earlier style drums to be fitted - this way the original bolt pattern can be retained.
    I really need to finish off IRS conversion and 915 mounts tomorrow so that I can
    flip the pan and get the body back on - then I can trial fit the engine
    to see if it fits. This will allow me to take LOTS of measurements so
    that I can fab headers up without body and pan whilst it is off having tha cage made. I might make a temporary frame to
    hold rear valence and rear wings in position relative to the engine to
    make life easier
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  • Progress was good today, managed to get the IRS finished, all that is required is the final welding and a little patching where I've relocated teh handbrake cable to the lower half of the pan. I will leave the final welding until after I have had a chance to get the car back on it's wheels with... Progress was good today, managed to get the IRS finished, all that is required is the final welding and a little patching where I've relocated teh handbrake cable to the lower half of the pan. I will leave the final welding until after I have had a chance to get the car back on it's wheels with the engine in place so that I can check the wheel alignment out - this will need to be done with a little weight in the car.
    Yesterday I made up a temporary support for the gearbox, which has allowed me to turn the pan right way up and retain the gearbox in the correct position, this will allow me to fit the engine and check out clearances and take measurements for the header system.
    I also started to fit the narrowed front beam up, and will get this finished tomorrow.
    First job tomorrow is to get the pan halves welded in place and then get the body back on the pan. Then I can trial fit the engine and make sure that everything fits. I will need to clearance the rear luggage area in the pan so that it clears the gearbox nosecone as the 915 box is a bit bigger, i will trim this back and box it in with some new steel.Overall I'm pretty pleased with progress, and confident that the body and pan should be rolling again tomorrow - ready for it's journey to get the cage made up.
    As usual there's more pics in my gallery at - http://www.vdubber.com/photo/gallery_tag/vdubber oval beetle salt racer
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  • Made more good progress today, i fitted the new pan halves and got the
    body back on the pan. Somehow I managed to do this by myself - I guess
    it's a lot easier if you're not worried about scratching paint. I
    postponed fitting up the new front beam as I didn't have an adjustable
    18-22mm...
    Made more good progress today, i fitted the new pan halves and got the
    body back on the pan. Somehow I managed to do this by myself - I guess
    it's a lot easier if you're not worried about scratching paint. I
    postponed fitting up the new front beam as I didn't have an adjustable
    18-22mm reamer, which is necessary for reaming out the king pins to fit
    after they are pressed into position. I will try to source another beam
    as a doner and then outsource getting the king and link pins fitted as
    it will probably cost about the same as an adjustable reamer.
    With the body in place the next thing was to get the engine trial
    fitted to make sure that there was enough clearance for everything, and
    to take measurements for the header system, but with the engine in
    place, several things became apparent.
    The engine sits about 2 inches further back than normal - this
    means that the rear valance will need to be clearanced - not too big an
    issue, and one that I was expecting.
    The second problem was that the injector bosses I had welded into
    the inlet manifolds foul the engine bay bodywork - but this too can be
    addressed with a grinder and a little imagination. I also had to remove
    the rocker covers to slide the engine in position, but the car was not
    on ramps and so this should not normally be an issue.
    The rocker covers also foul the rear bodywork and so more tin will
    need to be removed to allow the rocker boxes to be fitted / removed
    with the engine in position, I will look into using stock steel covers
    instead of the finned aluminium ones I currently have to see if this
    gains me a bit more clearance.
    By far the worst issue was that the Porsche cooling setup that I currently have prevents the engine lid from being closed. One solution would be to run deck lid standoffs, but this can be seen
    as 'streamlining' or trying to improve the aerodynamics. I could add a
    bulge to the lid, but that's also not something that I really want to
    do to a perfectly good W deck lid. My only solution is to use something like a Cali cooling setup - this
    uses a Type 1 fan housing, mated to Type 4 cooling tin, not too hard a
    job to fabricate, but a bit of an issue for the generator stand as
    there is nowhere for it to bolt to on my engine. Sharpbuilt, here in
    Australia offer a complete upright VW style cooling solution for the
    Type 4 engine, but the generator stand bolts to the stock Type 4
    breather tower - my breather tower has been machined off to allow the
    fan to be mounted directly to the engine so that it sits lower, not an
    insurmountable issue, but additional work I wasn't bargaining for.
    Here's one I made earlier...
    The problems don't end there either, the turbo is also proving to
    be a bit of an issue to locate, the ideal position is behind the rear
    valence - which is perfect for a Garret T03 or similar, but not so for
    the RayJay unit I have - it's huge in comparison. This means that
    ideally I need to fabricate the headers with the engine in the car as
    the clearances are simply too tight. I also considered cutting out the
    rear luggage area and installing it there with a cover made up to house
    it.
    Lots to think about. Lots of new issues to address. But at least the pan is now ready to go off to get the cage made.
     
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  • First off, if you haven't noticed, we finally released the first issue of Vdubber magazine, thanks for all of your kind words, and support, it looks like it's a success. A big thanks to all of the contributers and also Melle Mel for typesetting the whole mag.
    I picked up the oval this week as...
    First off, if you haven't noticed, we finally released the first issue of Vdubber magazine, thanks for all of your kind words, and support, it looks like it's a success. A big thanks to all of the contributers and also Melle Mel for typesetting the whole mag.
    I picked up the oval this week as the cage has now been finished off. We lifted the body off today, and I stripped the front beam off and trial fited the new narrowed beam up. I had to keep the car rolling as i am going to a scrutineers meeting tomorrow and need to be able to get the car on and off of a trailer, so I temporarily fitted the new drums up too, but all of this will need to come off to be able to finish the pan.Next stage is to finish the welding off on the pan - mostly the rear of the new pan halves and the IRS brackets, and run the fuel and oil lines through the tunnel, before giving the pan a quick paint. Then I need to figure out the gearbox / engine mountings and fix up the gearbox selector shaft. I have got a repro hurst shifter from the states, but I need to modify the gate to allow selection of 5th gear. There's also a scatter shield to fabricate too.My shipment of goodies finally arrived from CB performance, so I now have the plenums for the turbo induction, as well as lots of other stuff. I also received my el cheapo tacho and guages from ebay too. I just need to fabricate up a tee piece to join the throttle body to the plenums and the induction is sorted. For the present I will run without an intercooler, and see what happens.I've been deliving in to the EFI system and figuring out what i need to get it all running. All I'm missing are some injectors and a MAP sensor, which i will sort out next week. I confirmed that the two lambda sensors I have are both good to use, and that the water temp sender will work fine as an oil temp sender instead. I have drafted up teh wiring diagram and just need to go buy the wire and switches to make up the loom. not a big job, but one that needs to be  done right.Also sourced a better steering wheel as the one I had was cracked around the centre boss, and another boot (engine) lid so that I can cut a hole in it to allow the Porsche 911 fan setup to be used. I decided that this was the simplest, cheapest and quickest solution. It might not look quite right but at this stage I need to save every little bit of time that I can. I'm aiming at cuting a hole in it so that the fan doesn't foul it, and then adding an air scoop for additional cooling and induction to cover the hole. Fortunately the class that I am running in allows bonnect scoops, and spoilers. I didn't really want to fit a spoiler, as I wanted to leave the car relatively stock, bodywise, but I may have an issue with high speed stability, so at the moment I am a little undecided about this. I might make up one up, but not fit it so that I can trial it out whilst we are there.This week i aim at getting the pan completely finished off, including all running gear - suspension, brakes, steering, gearbox mounted and engine installed. This only really amounts to assembly as i have purchased all new components. I would like to be in a position where I can start fabricating the headers at the end of the week. If I can achieve this, then I should be on track to firing up the engine the following week. My big job for Monday is to get the drive shafts underway, as these are probably the last item to have outsourced.As Stevie Miller said... "Time keeps on ticking"
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  • Delivered the oval to Donegal Engineering today to have the cage made up, big thanks to Paul Penny and his brother for helping out, was good to hook up. Sorry I couldn't have stayed a bit longer, but had an appointment at upullit to get a throttle body.
    Managed to pick up a suitable throttle...

    Delivered the oval to Donegal Engineering today to have the cage made up, big thanks to Paul Penny and his brother for helping out, was good to hook up. Sorry I couldn't have stayed a bit longer, but had an appointment at upullit to get a throttle body.
    Managed to pick up a suitable throttle from a Ford - wouldn't know what type it was but it had a 3.9 EFI 6 cylinder. The I/D is about 70mm and it comes complete with a TPS and MAP sensor (probably no good for my EFI - lol)
    So, with the car out of the way, my attention needs to switch to making up the headers. I basically need to get the engine running and then take it to an engine dyno to get the EFI map sorted. This means - headers + induction + wiring + cooling + oil system need to be sorted.
    Part of the induction system should be arriving this week, along with the oil cooler, and the cooling system. I still need to source some parts for cooling system, as well as wheels and other bits and bobs, so will try to go have a bit of a shopping trip next week.
    I will make the headers up from mandrel bends - the system is 1 1/2" so just need to get a selection of bends and flanges and get busy with the welder.
    Another thing I need to tackle whilst the car is out of the picture is an off road welding trolley - damn gravel driveways are a right PITA.
    :lol:
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  • Feel a bit lost without the car to work on, so have been a bit slack. Have spent the time doing a spot of research on ye olde interwobble, trying to track down some cheap gauges. Found some flea bay specials for a very reasonable price - oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure and a 5" tacho for... Feel a bit lost without the car to work on, so have been a bit slack. Have spent the time doing a spot of research on ye olde interwobble, trying to track down some cheap gauges. Found some flea bay specials for a very reasonable price - oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure and a 5" tacho for not very much dollahs. They're el-cheapo snide Autometer clones, but will do the job for time being, which is likely to be one weeks use at speed week - assuming the car lasts a week that is :)Picked up all of the stuff to make up the headers with - lots of 90 degree mandrel bends, a 4 into 1 collector, flanges etc, and a nice bit of 6mm x 100mm flat bar to make up the turbo mounting flange from. The header will be a 1 1/2" system into a 2 3/4" collector up to the turbo. The exit from the turbo is 3". I will make this up myself as it's simply the quickest way to do it. I've also been down to see the bug a couple of times to work out a few issues with cage design and also drop off the seat. The rear floor has now been cut out of the body to allow the cage to be permanently welded to the floor pan and frame horns whilst still allowing the body to be removed. This means that I now have a lot of room in the rear of the car to put the turbo as I can box this in afterwards with a new firewall. Another great bonus is that I can also fit an intecooler in an ice bucket inside the car - well it would be a bonus except that there is no ice van this year as they're all at the Clipsal :(The cage now has the main hoop made up with the cross brace in place, and the brackets welded on for the cage to join up to the frame horns. All of a sudden, its starting to look like race car.The front beam is being made up and (fingers crossed) I've also managed to source a set of wheels with safety beads. Unfortunately the slackers at CB performance still haven't dispatched my order, which I'm a bit pi$$ed off about - especially as the extortionate super fast shipping is costing as much as my order is. Not so super fast now is it. Hopefully this isn't going to hold me up.Got some more pics, but as usual, haven't had time to upload them yet, will post them when I do. More
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  • OK, fresh back from the scrutineering meeting
    yesterday, decided to get cracking. Went out and sourced some steel for
    the scatter-shield, and the RHS braces that were discussed, and also
    some sheet metal for fabricating up the new bulkheads and patching a
    few bits of tin worm here and there.
    ...
    OK, fresh back from the scrutineering meeting
    yesterday, decided to get cracking. Went out and sourced some steel for
    the scatter-shield, and the RHS braces that were discussed, and also
    some sheet metal for fabricating up the new bulkheads and patching a
    few bits of tin worm here and there.
    Also bought all of the stuff to build my wiring loom with - nice
    aircraft kill switches and pushbuttons. Even got some stuff to make up
    a DIY dyno controller box for the DTA EFI unit I am running.
    Here's the competed RHS braces. Still need to add flatbar underneath to tie it to the pan.
    Also welded up the IRS pivots
    And started on the scattershield.
    Day off tomorrow - got to go drink beer- it's Australia day!!
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  • Haven't had a chance to post much lately, been pretty busy either working or getting the oval back together. Progress has been marred a little by real work, which has taken me out of Adelaide, this has meant that work on the oval comes to a complete standstill (there is only me unfortuantely).... Haven't had a chance to post much lately, been pretty busy either working or getting the oval back together. Progress has been marred a little by real work, which has taken me out of Adelaide, this has meant that work on the oval comes to a complete standstill (there is only me unfortuantely). Looking at the countdown time on my widgets, it's telling me 21 days to go, not a lot of time, but still lots to do. Since getting the pan back from the cage builder, I've been busy getting the suspension and steering back together, and also getting the scatter shield made up.The scatter shield has probably been the biggest headache of all - not only does it have to be custom made, but i also had to figure out how to mount the 915 gearbox in as well - double trouble. I started off making a simple hoop out of flat bar which I was going to mount  to a beefed up trans support, but this didn't look strong enough. Then, whilst helping the father in law with his Triumph Bonneville I spotted a prime mover brake drum, that he said he had used as a brazier - perfect size, but unfortunately cast iron and not suitable. He called me back a few days later to say that he had found a rolled steel extension that was made for the top of the brazier - he dropped it over and work started on scatter shield mark 2.The scatter shield needs to be 6mm thick steel, and whilst there are not any actual reccomendations in the DLRA rules, general consensus within the drag racing fraternity is that it should extend 1 1/2" forwards and back of the flywheel. For the V8 guys this is easy - just go to your local speed shop and order a replacement bell housing for your trans - job done. Unfortunately, the Porsche (or VW) box is all one piece and so this simply isnt an option.The rolled steel I got from the father in law (cheers Chris) was a litttle too big in diameter, so I had to cut a section out and then use ratchet straps to close up the gap before re-welding it. it's not the prettiest of jobs, but without a set of rollers, it's a hard thing to fabricate.
    With the scattershield done, and the pan painted with a generous coating of gloss enamel underneath and matt enamel on top, with some POR 15 on the exposed front and rear frames , the refit has started. the front and rear suspension are now back on, and the brakes are next on the list - everything is new, so hopefully it's a case of reassemble rather than rebuild. The gearbox is officially in. The shift rod has been shortened and gears have been selected - I modded a repro hurst shifter to work with the 5 speed box, had to bend it a little to prevent my knuckles grazing the roll cage, and ideally would like to add spring gates to it, but I will leave this as a last on the list job, as currently I can select gears.
    The schedule is now really out of whack, but 3 weeks is still time enough if I knuckle down - it takes about 2 weeks to reassemble a car including trim and this doesnt have anything inside at all. Need to get the body back on to clearance for the engine, and also see if the extra 25mm I managed to push the gearbox further forwards will now allow the stock deck lid to close. If not I managed to source a cheap semi-w to cut a hole in for the Porsche fan.Off to get the brake shoes relined tomorrow, then I can get the pan rolling again. Fingers crossed.....There's heaps more pics in the gallery - just search for the tag vdubber -  http://www.vdubber.com/photo/gallery_tag/vdubber/50/1
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  • Well, at the beginning of this week I decided to throw in the towel with the oval build and admit defeat. Whilst it would still have been possible to get the car running and to the lake, I would have been missing out on any shakedown time that I had planned. Unfortunately, a few delays, have... Well, at the beginning of this week I decided to throw in the towel with the oval build and admit defeat. Whilst it would still have been possible to get the car running and to the lake, I would have been missing out on any shakedown time that I had planned. Unfortunately, a few delays, have meant that timing has slipped, and the time I had set aside for running in and teething troubles simply dissapeared.
    So I decided that I had given it my best shot. I did not want to run the risk of blowing an engine, or worse, just because I had rushed at the 11th hour. Bit gutted to say the least, as this has now been my main focus for months, but not to worry - I now have plenty of time to make sure it's 110% for 2011. At the moment, I'm having a bit of a siesta and concentrating on getting some $$$'s earned (anyone need a website?) but will have a look at the VW events calendar and see what is coming up in the near future - Having just missed out on Portland last weekend, I now fancy hitting some drags.
    I will be taking the Oval to the club show at the end of March, so if you fancy having a look, make sure you tag along.
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  • Finally managed to get back out in the garage this weekend. It's the first time since April that I've managed to get anything done on the Oval. Having not made speedweek in March, the bug has just sat there waiting for me to make some time to get back into the swing of things. So with next March... Finally managed to get back out in the garage this weekend. It's the first time since April that I've managed to get anything done on the Oval. Having not made speedweek in March, the bug has just sat there waiting for me to make some time to get back into the swing of things. So with next March slowly creeping up, I decided that it was long overdue.
    Most of the weekend was spent clearing the back yard, this is in readiness for the concreting to be done on the garage extension - with the garage base in I can finally clad it and get some undercover space to work on the bug. 
    Clearing the yard was fun - as this involved removing a tree - a perfect excuse to hire a chainsaw and wreak destruction - lol. With the tree 'pruned', all that was left was to pull it out of the ground with the Landrover. This is the third tree that the little Landy has pulled out - just lash up the tow rope to the front bumper, stick it in low range and then work the tree out of the ground. The key is to leave a long bit of trunk when you prune it so that you can get some leverage. Works a treat. And I cannot imagine that you could do the same with any modern 'softroader' it would likely just pull the front end off.
    So - final scores - Tree 0 - Landy 1
    With all of the fun over and done with, I managed to get a spare half hour to POR15 the rear brake backing plates on the oval. This should hopefully mean that I can reassemble the brakes next week and get the chassis rolling again. So not a massive amount of work - but at least a start.
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