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  • Mick's 70 Lowlight uploaded 6 photos in the album Exhaust heat shield
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  • Mick's 70 Lowlight uploaded 9 photos in the album Devon Buddy Seat
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  • So the past month has been pretty eventful and I've spend a heap of time (and money lol) on the bus. I installed the new ECU and spent some time tuning. The bus was running really strong but I had a bit of a mishap when I pulled out from a turning and gunned it and ended up breaking a piston... So the past month has been pretty eventful and I've spend a heap of time (and money lol) on the bus. I installed the new ECU and spent some time tuning. The bus was running really strong but I had a bit of a mishap when I pulled out from a turning and gunned it and ended up breaking a piston ring land. The issue was basically a poor tune and too high CR. The bus did go like stink, so there's definitely some merit in a high CR boosted engine and something I will explore again in the future, but with our annual trip to Robe for Dubs by the Sea looming I decided that I needed a reliable engine and so made up another set of heads with a more respectable 8:1 Static CR. So the engine was out again and then back in again and the tuning recommenced.

    With the trip to Robe nearing there were a bunch of other jobs that I wanted to get finished in time for the trip, install the new front ball joints, install the drop spindles (with disk brake conversion), install a proper solar system to power our new fridge, make up a buddy seat, the list seemed to be endless.

    I finished the drop spindles off and went about swapping them over. Despite buying the proper ball joint press to do the ball joints on the car and making up a jig, the ball joints did not want to budge. Unfortunately my ball joints had been peened in place and the portable press just wasn't cutting it so I had to pull the torsion arms off and press the ball joints out in the shop press. (it took 15T of pressure to get them out.)

    With the new ball joints in I fitted up the new drop spindles with new lowered shocks (with clearanced brake callipers to clear the 14" wheels) and set the geometry as best as I could with the tools that I had. (tape measure and eyeballs).

    With the drop spindles installed I raised the ride height so that they net result was about the same, this meant that I had to re-profile the shift linkage to allow me to adjust the top beam adjusters into the position needed. I also took the opportunity to make up a narrowed ant roll bar. The handling was noticeably worse since removing it but with the availability of narrowed anti roll bars being zero unless you wanted to shell out $500 for a french slammer roll bar I had run without it. Having read online that someone had simply cut and shut the existing roll bar with no dramas I decided to do the same. I made up a sleeve and measured up the required width and then cut out the relevant amount from the centre. I then welded the roll bar back together and then welded the sleeve over the top to reinforce it. So far it's been fine.

    The drop spindles and roll bar have brought back some quality to the ride. It pretty much rides like stock again, albeit maybe a little stiffer. Handling is heaps better and I no longer have to avoid pot holes. It really is quite civilised.

    I also managed to get the solar and buddy seat done as well but I'll write about those that separately

    On the way back from Robe we managed to scrub a tyre, or at least that's what I thought had happened. The inner metal of the sidewall looked as though it had worn through. I suspected that the rear suspension geometry was not set correctly and the tyre had scrubbed through. So I took the bus down to Light Wheel Alignment in the CBD to get a 4 wheel alignment done. They found that the rear alignment was actually okay. So after getting a new tyre I realised that the exhaust silencer was VERY close to the tyre, and that what had probably happened was that the tyre had been cooked on the way back from Robe, the sidewall had softened and the reinforcing worked its way out.

    So I ordered some heat shielding and made up a heat shield for the silencer. The heat shield is very easy to bend, and it did not take too long to make up something suitable. I held it to the silencer using nut-serts. Now I can hold my hand on the outside of the heat shield, whereas I cannot touch the silencer. Great stuff. I'm planning on adding some more to the inside of the rear valence to help keep the exhaust temps out of the engine bay.

    So the bus is now very much back on the road. The EFI is still getting slight tweaks but is generally working great. Now it's just a case of working through a bunch of other projects to get it back into shape, but more on that later...


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  • So the engine is in and running but I'm not getting a stable tune. I've traced the problem to a bad voltage regulator on the board which is giving an unstable board voltage, which in turn is giving inaccurate injector timing and ignition events. Rather than fix it I'm replacing the board as the... So the engine is in and running but I'm not getting a stable tune. I've traced the problem to a bad voltage regulator on the board which is giving an unstable board voltage, which in turn is giving inaccurate injector timing and ignition events. Rather than fix it I'm replacing the board as the one that's in there is a very old Speeduino version. But the cool thing is that I've driven the bus for the first time in nearly two years and IT FELT GREAT. Didn't realise how much I missed driving my bus.

    Unfortunately the hiccup with the tuning meant that I did not want to risk the run to ReVolks so decided to give it a miss this year. Looks like none of the SA crew went apart from @Choco. It's a real shame as I really enjoy it, but didn't want to take the risk of such a long trip on a dodgy ECU.

    I did however manage to get the rear safari fitted to the bus. I needed to get a rear glass in the replacement tailgate for the ReVolks trip so decided to finish the tailgate to the point where I could at least fit it - this meant fitting glass and adding catches. It still doesn't have the stays fitted, and the frame needs some more fettling to get it to fit properly, but considering it's scratch made, it actually works, although I did smash one rear screen fitting it - oops.

    Fitting the glass was a complete PITA - even worse than doing safaris and I think that this is mostly as the frame is aluminium. It's simply too soft to hold its shape, so where the rubber seal and glass want to push it out of shape it has no resistance. The end result is that it does not follow the contour of the hatch. I'm going to leave it for the time being but I think I'll remake it with a steel frame. Having seen how the loose nuts guys do it I think I'll do it a little differently next time. The steel frame will also make it much easier to mount the catches and stays as well as they can simply be welded to the outside of the frame.

    I've also finally finished the front dropped spindle conversion. This uses adaptor plates to change the late bay bolt pattern to wide 5. I finished machining the plates and fitted everything up. I had a make a small spacer for the hub as the rear of the wheel studs just fouled the brake calliper, so rather than simply grinding the calliper to clearance it, I decided to space the entire hub out. I turned some washers in the lathe to get the correct dimensions and then used the Demco T&C grinder to surface grind them down to the correct thickness (0.8mm in case anyone wants to do the same).

    So basically the adaptor is a flat steel plate 10mm thick, the studs are pressed out of the original hub and refitted into the adaptor plate. The hub is then drilled and tapped for M14 bolts and the adaptor plate countersunk to accept the countersunk bolts. I used the 0.8mm spacer to allow the studs to clear the callipers but it could quite easily have been done by using a spacer between the disk and adaptor plate or by using a 12mm plate and machining a recess in the rear (probably a more elegant solution).

    So all that's left to do now is fit them.
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  • So the engine is back together and installed in the bus. After some pondering I decided to blend in the second plug but it didn't really give me too much more in the way of chamber cc's so I decided to assemble the engine and see how it works with the higher CR. The theory is high CR low boost.

    ...
    So the engine is back together and installed in the bus. After some pondering I decided to blend in the second plug but it didn't really give me too much more in the way of chamber cc's so I decided to assemble the engine and see how it works with the higher CR. The theory is high CR low boost.

    So I reassembled the engine and hooked it up to one of my ignition systems as a test. The engine ran okay, if only for a short while as I did not have the oil cooler hooked up and there's no doghouse cooler installed.

    I did a compression check on the engine and registered about 180 on each cylinder. So with confirmation that the heads were no longer leaking and I was getting compression it was time to install the engine.

    So I spent some of Friday installing the engine ready for today. So after getting a bit sidetracked with my aquarium I managed to get the engine started this arvo. There's still a lot to sort out before I can start on the tune - The wideband is not working which made it run like a smoke machine as the fuelling correction was turned on (oops), the wideband connector had ended up full of water from the rain last night and blowing it out with an airline obviously didn't fix it, I'll try swapping it out for anther one. I also fried an ignition driver. Evidently pairing up the igniters for the twin spark is not such a good idea

    So this evening I soldered in new drivers, going to try and run two in parallel and see if that fixes it. If not I'll run some extra wires to the second coil pack and configure them wasted COP. Definitely some benefits to making your own ECUs 😎

    In the rush to get the bus running, I was a bit lazy and didn't make up a smaller blower pulley as I had planned (time poor), so the one that's on there was previously making 10 psi on the carbureted set up. I'm undecided if this will be a problem with the 9.8 CR. Will see how it goes. I don't really want to grenade the engine if I can help it, but I'm happy to push the limits a little in the name of research (or is it laziness lol)

    Although the idle is high its interesting to see that it's showing some boost at idle. The tell tale in tuner studio also shows 6psi when revving it. Will be interesting to see what it shows under load.

    It seems nice and responsive, even with basic desktop mapping and running form three cylinders. Can't wait to get it running properly and take it for a spin.


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  • Spent Saturday pulling the engine out of the bus and stripping it down to get the heads off. The new oil line setup meant that removing the engine was much easier. Unplugging the loom was interesting, mostly as I had pre-fitted the loom to the engine prior to installing it. this made access to... Spent Saturday pulling the engine out of the bus and stripping it down to get the heads off. The new oil line setup meant that removing the engine was much easier. Unplugging the loom was interesting, mostly as I had pre-fitted the loom to the engine prior to installing it. this made access to the hidden coil packs a little bit of a challenge, but not impossible.

    With the heads removed the next part of the puzzle was getting my Bridgeport mill up and running. The mill is 3 phase powered and so I needed to convert it to single phase before I could use it. Fortunately I had already bought the necessary parts (an inverter and 110v transformer) but up until this point hadn't had a valid excuse to install them. The conversion took me most of Sunday afternoon but by the end of it I had a working mill with power feed, power quill, working DRO and a light. (very important that part lol)

    So todays task was to set the mill up and re-skim the heads. Setting the mill up involved carefully measuring the head orientation relative to the table. The head needs to be perfectly perpendicular or else any machining that you carry out will not be square. This is the issue I had on my smaller mill when I originally cut the heads. (or at least that's what I thought).

    So with the mill set up I clamped the first head to the table and set it up ready to be machined. The great thing about this mill is that it has a power quill feed, which means that you can set the depth stop and the mill will automatically machine down to this depth and then stop. This makes undertaking a machining operation such as this a breeze.

    So after machining both heads I offered up one of the barrels to see how it fitted. What I noted was that the barrel did not actually seat in the head properly, instead the mating surfaces were slightly apart, leaving a slight gap. Further inspection showed that there is a wider part of the barrel just before the fins that was preventing it from seating properly. I suspect that this may have even been the original issue that I had, but as the gap was so slight I never noticed it.

    Generally when decking the head for high compression the first fin is machined off, this provides the extra clearance needed, I did not think that this was required when decking the head by a few thou but was obviously wrong. To remedy the issue I counterbored a step in the head to provide clearance for the barrel.

    The only issue is that now, after all of the additional machining, my heads are only 39cc, which with my current deck height of 40 thou gives me a static compression ratio of about 9.8:1. With no boost this works out to a dynamic ratio of 8.9:1. When I factor for 8psi of boost my dynamic ratio increases to 13.9:1, which is way up there (general rule of thumb is max of 12.5 for pump gas.). So I now have some thinking to do...

    Part of the reason for this build was to push things with the stock 1600, it's a bit of an experiment. The engine is basically made from junk pile parts and the goal was to see how far I could go with a blown 1600 utilising stock parts.

    My original CR was about 8.7:1, which is pretty standard for a boosted car on pump gas running around 10psi. My original plan was to run higher boost and use twin plugs and singh grooves to help control detonation by reducing timing and improving squish / swirl. So one option is that I could leave the CR high as it currently is and run lower boost, this would give me plenty of room to see if the mods I've made to reduce detonation work as I can easily add more boost. The other option is to invest more time into modding the combustion chambers to lower the CR and have a 'safer' engine. Hard to determine which is the best option. Perhaps a bit of both,

    I would really like to blend the area around the second plug into the rest of the chamber as the plug is partially shrouded. I did not notice this before as I did not have the plugs fitted when I assembled the engine. Not sure how much this change will net me, but pretty sure it will not get me back down to 8.7:1. I don't really want to remove material from elsewhere as the chamber shape is good. Removal of more material would effectively mean losing some of the quench pads which I feel would have a detrimental effect as the singh grooves rely on the quench pad to work.

    Will sleep on it and see what takes my fancy in the morning.



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  • Still managing to get some small jobs chipped off of the list. Finally managed to get one of my front hub adaptors finished off. These are made from 10mm steel plate, which is a bit heavy, but then this is not a race car so the sprung mass is not really that critical and it will make for a... Still managing to get some small jobs chipped off of the list. Finally managed to get one of my front hub adaptors finished off. These are made from 10mm steel plate, which is a bit heavy, but then this is not a race car so the sprung mass is not really that critical and it will make for a smoother ride, which is not a bad thing.

    I had already had the plate laser cut and then drilled it out on my dividing head. If I was to do it again (which I might) I would do it a little differently, but as I had these I decided to use them. I pressed the studs out of the new bay hub and drilled it for M14 on the dividing head. I then drilled and countersunk the adaptor plate for the mounting bolts. I then faced the adaptor plate off to make is flat and true. Next I drilled out the adaptor plate to accept the press in studs that I had removed from the hub and pressed them in on my shop press. For anyone thinking of doing this themselves it took about 5 tons to press them in so a small 10/12 ton shop press should easily do the job.

    One down, one to go. Then I will send them off to get zinc plated. All I need now is to find some suitable lug nuts.
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  • So I managed to finish off the ECU installation and verify everything was working but could not get the engine started. Assuming that it was an issue with the ECU / wiring, I worked through everything to eventually discover that the problem was a lack of compression. Stumped that I was getting... So I managed to finish off the ECU installation and verify everything was working but could not get the engine started. Assuming that it was an issue with the ECU / wiring, I worked through everything to eventually discover that the problem was a lack of compression. Stumped that I was getting practically a zero reading across all four cylinders I went out and bought another compression tester as it seemed more likely that the tester was busted, but the result was the same. On further inspection I could see that there is a leak between the heads and barrels.

    I need to pull the engine and tear it down to find out what's going on. The only thing that I can think of is that the mill head was out of tram when I decked the cylinder heads, causing the chambers to be out of square. This is the only logical reason why all four barrels should be the same.

    It's also made me wonder how I can prevent this in the future. I'll obviously check the mill for tram before machining the heads, but a leak down test would have also highlighted this before I wasted any time building up the long block and installing it in the car.

    So I'm a little bit disappointed, but it's also a valuable lesson. Apart from getting the engine out of the bus and tearing it down I also need to decide what to do with the motor. If I'm correct on the cause, I will need to re-skim the heads, which will also raise the CR a little, which in turn will mean some more work on the chambers to bring it back down again. I could negate this by installing copper gaskets but 85.5mm copper gaskets seem to be like hens teeth. I guess I could always make some.

    Will see what the verdict is when I pull the engine.
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  • Another productive day working towards getting the bus finished. Got the new rear shocks installed and the throttle cable hooked up. I've installed KYB gas-adjust on the rear as from what I have read this will give a smoother ride. I've got straight oil style Empi lowered shocks for the front as... Another productive day working towards getting the bus finished. Got the new rear shocks installed and the throttle cable hooked up. I've installed KYB gas-adjust on the rear as from what I have read this will give a smoother ride. I've got straight oil style Empi lowered shocks for the front as in my experience gas shocks are simply too bouncy when fitted up front.

    I adjusted the rear ride height and finished bolting the spring plates up. Had to make up an accelerator return spring as the 36hp shroud fouled the cable a little. Ideally it needs a new hole drilled in it to straighten out the throttle cable route so that it doesn't drag on the fan shroud, but that'll just have to wait until later as I just want to get it running. Also adjusted the clutch cable up but could not top up the brake fluid as I seem to have run out Did manage to adjust the rear brakes tho, so that's a bonus at least.

    After setting up the throttle cable I moved on to installing the new front headlights. I bought these an age ago but had never got around to installing them properly. The job was a simple one as I had already made up the brackets, I just needed to weld them into place. I then hooked them up electrically and tested them. I'm pretty pleased with the results.

    The headlight units have an LED halo around the outside of the lens for the sidelight - similar to an Audi / BMW. I also swapped the main halogen lamp for an LED version. A worthwhile swap as the light is noticeably better. They obviously look a little different to normal lights but the light is a lot brighter too.

    With the headlights hooked up I then connected up the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure / temp gauges. This only left the ECU to hook which did not take too long as I had documented everything on a schematic. I tidied up the loom a little with some saddles. This only leaves the tacho to hook up, which I will do later.

    I'm now pretty much at the stage where I'm ready to start the engine and get the tuning underway. But that's a job for tomorrow.
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  • So another day of slowly chipping away at all of those little jobs needed to get the bus back on the road again. I started off by making up a new oil feed pipe to replace the one I crushed with the engine jack. The hardest part was removing the old pipe with the moustache bar in place. It was... So another day of slowly chipping away at all of those little jobs needed to get the bus back on the road again. I started off by making up a new oil feed pipe to replace the one I crushed with the engine jack. The hardest part was removing the old pipe with the moustache bar in place. It was originally installed before the moustache bar went on and whilst the engine was on the engine stand so access was not an issue, trying to do the same thing with the engine in the bus with practically zero clearance underneath was not exactly my idea of fun. Anyhow's, the inevitable happened and I crushed my finger undoing one of the fittings (ouch). No pain, no gain as they say.

    So with the oil hard line replaced I hooked up the flexi lines and decided to add some oil. I had already filled the filter up with oil when I installed it (it takes over a litre of oil alone) and just needed to fill the engine. To help with filling the oil with a supercharger installed I made a useful contraption some years back; basically an old plastic oil container with the bottom cut out and a rope tied through it to hang it from the gutter. On it's outlet is a length of hose that can be run into the filler neck. It's basically like a giant funnel with a hose on it. So I dig it out from the garage and give it a wipe out as it has a bunch of dust and stuff inside, and then hook it up to the engine. I look inside and see something in there, so I wipe it out some more and go get the remainder of the oil.

    For the initial fill I'm using a diesel oil, Diesel oil has a higher proportion of detergents and so will give the engine a good clean out whilst I break in the new rings, otherwise it is the same as petrol based oils. It's also heaps cheaper than running an engine clean additive like Winns or whatever. My dad used to work at Mobil this was one of the handy tips he gave me.

    Anyhow's, I digress, I get the oil and pour some in the 'contraption', but looking inside I see what looks like a slug. Wondering how it got in there I ponder for a second whether the slug would do any damage to the engine, I figure it would get mushed up by the oil pump gears so possibly not, but then consider that it could also get jammed in the oil pickup tube and cause an oil starvation issue and result in catastrophic failure so decide that it's best not to add it to the engine. So I remove the contraption and try to fish the slug out. Well, what I thought was a slug actually turned out to be skink (a small lizard about 4 inches long) Unfortunately he (or she) had met their maker drowning in dieseltec 20/50. So I remove the skink and pour in the remainder of the oil. The oil level is just over the max fill line but I know that once the air has bled out of the cooler it will pretty much be perfect. Funny how you get to know your car after a while (and regular oil changes.)

    So with the oil in I move on to the next job, taking a look at the exhaust...

    I messaged a buddy of mine in WA who also has a similar system fitted and he was kind enough to send me some photos of his install (thanks Humpty), he said he had to shorten his muffler and angle the muffler to gain extra clearance. So armed with a a plan of what I needed to do I set about hacking mine to try and achieve the same

    First job was to disassemble the muffler, this involved cutting around the end cap at the tail pipe end. Once I had cut through the weld I was able to slide the inner and outer parts apart. The muffler is basically a perforated pipe, that is surrounded by kawool (a fireproof 'wool' often used in furnaces). I shortened the inner part and welded it back together.

    The overall length of the muffler needed to be shortened by about 50mm so that it cleared the bottom shock mount so this is what I cut out of both the inner pipework and the outer cover. With everything shortened I reassembled it and welded it back up. *just a note here* I hate welding stainless, not only did I have the wrong gas, but I also do not have the correct equipment to gas purge the pipe which results in a buildup on the inside of the pipe opposite the weld. This means masses of grinding and a non-cosmetic weld. Of course, the bus is no show pony and I don't really care what it looks like, in fact the rattier, the better.

    So with the muffler shortened the next stage was to relocate it to try and create some ground clearance. This basically involved cutting it at the muffler and cutting it at the collector flange and re-welding it back together so that the muffler was mounted at an upwards angle and tucked back in a little more. After tacking it together, offering it up, making some adjustments, re-tacking it together, offering it up, making some adjustments, re-tacking it together, offering it up again it was looking pretty good. So I welded it up. Muffler done! but probably easier to make one from scratch.

    So next I pondered my next steps - fit the rear shocks, adjust the rear spring plates, fit the missing bolts in the rear hubs, adjust the brakes, finish running the loom, hook up the ECU, prime the oil system, fit the front shocks, fit the front ball joints, drop spindles, hub adaptors, mod the front roll bar...

    The list goes on, but whilst pondering I came up with a solution for the front adaptors I had made to convert the late bay drop spindles to wide 5. I had these made from a CAD drawing I was given but never really liked that the centres were a LOT larger than the hubs and so were not supported by the hubs (not good in my books). My brainwave was that I could use shoulder bolts to locate the hubs to the discs and adaptors - basically acting as dowels to ensure that the adaptors are perfectly hub-centric. This is cool for two reasons...

    1. I can use the adaptors I had made up, saving some money
    2. I already have the stuff so don't have to wait.
    3. Yeah-right, like I've got the 'spare' time to just do this - lol

    So, another piece of the puzzle slots into place. I'm kinda thinking at this stage that I'll just get the bus running and driving again and then maybe work through the list of other jobs. A bit like a rolling resto, after all the bus is starting to look a bit tired after sitting under my olive trees for the past 18 months and it could really do with some rust repairs and paint. I figure if I get the mechanical jobs out of the way and then take a look at the bodywork a panel at a time it will eventually get done.
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  •   cheroxgdl reacted to this post about 5 months ago
    Made a start on plumbing things in and offered the silencer up to see how much ground clearance I had. (Not much at all.) The front of the silencer fouls the shock mount and it generally sits way too low (50mm), a lot lower than the header (90mm). Looks like I will have to do some more surgery... Made a start on plumbing things in and offered the silencer up to see how much ground clearance I had. (Not much at all.) The front of the silencer fouls the shock mount and it generally sits way too low (50mm), a lot lower than the header (90mm). Looks like I will have to do some more surgery on it to get it to fit better. I still need to dial in the rear ride height as I fitted adjustable spring plates, so might gain a few mm there.

    Also have to make up a new oil feed pipe as I managed to crush the previous one with the engine jack. Bloody ironic really considering that it was a crushed oil hose that was the reason the bus taken off of the road in the first place. D'OH!

    Now that the engine is in it looks like my breather can will not fit so I'll have to make a custom one up. I've got a few ideas on what I want to do there - basically the same as I had before but tailored to the install. My original breather was a modified air cleaner so sat quite nicely in the engine bay. Unfortunately the fuel rails get in the way so I need to either modify it or make a new one. Making a new one is probably easier.

    Still a bunch of stuff to do before I can start commissioning. I even pushed the bus out into the open and cut back the olive trees to get a bit of space to work in.

    My goal is to take it to the next burger night which is only two weeks away. Fingers crossed.
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  • Managed to get the engine in today. Finished up a few small jobs, like extending the loom for the sensors and relocating the oil filter, and then with a little help from my assistants (thanks @MelleMel) transferred the engine from the garage on to the engine jack. I even managed to get the... Managed to get the engine in today. Finished up a few small jobs, like extending the loom for the sensors and relocating the oil filter, and then with a little help from my assistants (thanks @MelleMel) transferred the engine from the garage on to the engine jack. I even managed to get the engine mostly installed in the bus. I just need to finish off bolting it up, which I'll do tomorrow.

    Then comes the fun part of dressing the loom in and cutting a hole in the rear bulkhead. I've already selected the location for the ECU - in the cubby to the side of the rear seat but will need to make up some kind of protective cover for it. Not really a big drama but something that I'll need to do before packing our camping gear back in there.

    Than it's a case of pumbing it in and hooking it up. Not really too much to do there - Oil lines, fuel lines, then fluids, pressure tests for fuel system and fire her up. Not long now.
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  • A bit of a milestone tonight - the engine is finally off of the engine stand. I finished off the last bit of testing (recording the current draw for injector and coil circuits) and removed the exhaust ready for moving the engine out to the bus. Installation is imminent. But before I put the... A bit of a milestone tonight - the engine is finally off of the engine stand. I finished off the last bit of testing (recording the current draw for injector and coil circuits) and removed the exhaust ready for moving the engine out to the bus. Installation is imminent. But before I put the engine in I need to confirm the location for the ECU and fit a bulkhead fitting for the wiring loom which will be heaps easier to do before the engine is in.

    The ECU will be mounted under the rear seat so I need to find an appropriate location to take the loom from under the seat out along the drivers side chassis rail into the engine bay.

    The only other 'major' thing to sort out is a new mount for the oil filter. I need to raise this up as I'm using a sandwich plate to add a couple of sensors. It's a relatively minor job but one that will consume a few hours as I also need to re-route the sensor wiring.
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  • So it looks like I have finally found a driver side A-Pillar.

    Just waiting for it to arrive. ‏ — feeling Stoked
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  • Finally managed to finish the wiring loom off for the bus. This allowed me to get the ECU hooked up and commission everything. I calibrated the wideband sensor, set the TPS limits, added in the three point references for the temperature sensors, tested the crank trigger and the Idle stepper,... Finally managed to finish the wiring loom off for the bus. This allowed me to get the ECU hooked up and commission everything. I calibrated the wideband sensor, set the TPS limits, added in the three point references for the temperature sensors, tested the crank trigger and the Idle stepper, fired the injectors and coil packs and checked that everything was working as it should.

    Now it's just a case of getting the engine back in the bus and seeing if she will start.

    Not long now
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    ‏ — feeling Excited :D
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  •   Mick's 70 Lowlight commented on this post about 6 months ago
    Mick uploaded 21 photos in the album EFI / Blower Stuff
    • Spend some time today fitting the trigger wheel to my crank pulley and figuring out where and how to mount the VR sensor. I made up a quick bracket toSpend some time today fitting the trigger wheel to my crank pulley and figuring out where and how to mount the VR sensor. I made up a quick bracket to test out the chosen location and it appears to work pretty well. I will make up a better bracket when I've got the plasma back up and running.  More ...
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    • Have now junked Megasquirt in favour of Speeduino based solution using custom ECU designed by me. Features: integrated wideband, idle stepper control,Have now junked Megasquirt in favour of Speeduino based solution using custom ECU designed by me. Features: integrated wideband, idle stepper control, bluetooth and proper molex connector. Also now running a wider PK7 belt, revised high-flow manifold design, ported blower and higher flowing blown application injectors. Just finishing off the loom.  More ...
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  • Mick uploaded 10 photos in the album DIY Tacho
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  •   1967 13 window Deluxe Bus - Eve reacted to this post about 7 months ago
    Two pictures of our bus in USA - still with the grey overpaint.
    The other ones are already in Austria - we tried to bring back the original seablue paint.
    And already finished the metal work!
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  • Mick liked the page, 1967 13 window Deluxe Bus - Eve
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